Tribal People Try Beef, Mutton & Lamb

Beef, mutton, lamb and goat: steak, roast lamb, brisket, lamb chops, meatballs, Mongolian beef, and the tribe's own nihari and karahi gosht. Red meat is festival food in the village.

Pink meat and sweet glazes are the two things that need getting used to. Slow-cooked dishes — brisket, braised lamb shoulder — feel right immediately. Mint sauce with lamb, a British habit, gets a raised eyebrow.

Mutton karahi and nihari are the benchmarks, and they are cooked until the meat is soft enough to eat with roti. Any red meat that resists the teeth is described as undercooked.